Chemical peels utilize a range of acids, from lactic acid to salicylic acid, to peel away the top layer of skin, with effects that range from mild skin brightening to potentially taking years off of your appearance. According to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, chemical peels are some of the most popular nonsurgical cosmetic procedures performed in the United States.
At home, patients can opt for a mild, low concentration glycolic or salicylic acid peel that can be used without the supervision of a doctor. For stronger effects or more dramatic results, patients can also opt to visit a dermatologist for a more concentrated trichloroacetic acid (TCA) chemical peel.
For all of the benefits that in-spa and at-home facial peels tout, there are a number of cons that should be considered before taking the plunge with this anti-aging product. Let’s take a look at what benefits and risks are associated with chemical peels:
In General
Pro: Wrinkle Reduction
Chemical peel manufacturers boast before and after photos that show the effects of their product at work. They do reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and work on crow’s feet, without the need for Botox.
Con: Results Aren’t As Dramatic As You’d Think
Chemical peels work by removing the top layer of skin, so they aren’t going to tackle deep set wrinkles, such as deep lines on the forehead. If you think you’re going to turn back the hands of time with a 20-minute chemical peel, it simply isn’t going to happen, and this procedure is not right for you.
Pro: It Smooths Uneven Skin Tone
In removing that top layer of skin, chemical peels can help minimize uneven skin pigmentation caused by age spots and dark patches, making the skin appear brighter and more even, without the need for makeup.
Con: Skin Tone Can Become More Uneven
Chemical peels contain some harsh chemicals that literally peel away a layer of skin (think about how well an in-spa peel worked for Samantha on Sex and the City). For some people, that means that they can actually do more harm than good to your skin, temporarily or permanently, leaving you with lighter, more uneven patches of skin than you started out with. This is especially common for people with darker skin tones.
Pro: Chemical Peels Soften Skin
Just as with an exfoliator, chemical peels remove dead skin, exposing the layer below that is smoother, softer, and appears younger and more refreshed.
Con: Chemical Peels Can Leave Skin Dry and Crusty
After a chemical peel, it’s normal for skin to appear dry and scaly while the top, now dead, layer of skin dries out and peels away - something that can last for up to a week after undergoing the procedure. However, if you have sensitive skin or if you have a reaction to the peel, you can wind up with blisters, scaly patches, or even permanent scarring.
Pro: Peels Designated Light or Medium Are Fairly Safe
Many chemical peels that are light or medium in strength (with acid concentrations below 70 percent) are, for the most part, safe and painless, although you may experience tingling or discomfort when the chemicals are applied and shortly after. You can, however, go about your day after applying one.
Cons: Deep Peels Can Have Consequences If Improperly Applied
Strong or deep chemical peels that have acid concentrations of 50 percent or greater can cause uneven skin patches and even scarring, especially if applied incorrectly. Because the risk for uneven skin tone is greater in women with darker skin and women of color, you should have your procedure performed by a dermatologist if you don’t have fair skin to avoid unsightly (and permanent) complications.
At-Home Or Mild Chemical Peels
Milder chemical peels won’t give you the same dramatic results that a professionally applied, strong peel will, but they can help the skin look brighter and more refreshed. Typically, these milder peels use salicylic acid, lactic acid, and/or glycolic acid as active ingredients. Considering an at-home chemical peel? In addition to the pros and cons listed above, you should consider:
Pro: They’re Safe and Affordable
Most people find that chemical peels designed for home use with a lower than 50 percent acid concentration are safe, effective skin brighteners that can cost anywhere from $20 to $50, or slightly more, depending on the product or line.
Con: There Are Risks With Chemical Peel DIY Projects
You aren’t going to see the same results that you’d see in a doctor’s office, which is the trade-off that you have for a safer, milder peel that doesn’t require a doctor’s supervision to apply.
If you attempt to give yourself a stronger peel at home (one with an acid concentration above 50 percent), you're putting yourself at risk for permanent scarring. Do your research thoroughly before attempting a peel at home. Women of color and those with darker skin tones should do their homework and find a chemical peel that has been designed for their skin tone, keeping in mind that a mistake can mean a more uneven skin tone after the procedure.
Professional Chemical Peels: At A Spa
If you have a chemical peel performed at a spa, you will most likely be getting a mild or medium strength peel, which will have the same results as a home peel. Spas tend to use glycolic acid, TCA, or alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels, with TCA being the strongest of the three.
Pro: Your Procedure Is Overseen By A Licensed Aesthetician
Worried about slathering chemicals on your face in your bathroom? Having a chemical peel performed at a spa ensures (if you’re diligent about choosing a reputable spa) that your procedure will be performed in a sterile environment by a licensed professional, minimizing your risks for skin infections, scarring, and other complications.
Cons: They Can Be Costly
A chemical peel at a spa can cost up to $400 or more, for the same product that you would be using for a home peel.
Professional Peels: At The Dermatologist
You can make an appointment with a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon to undergo a chemical peel that ranges from light to deep, under the supervision of a licensed physician. However, before making the decision to choose this option, consider the following:
Pro: He’s A Pro!
You’re going to be undergoing a procedure guided by a trained physician, who presumably will know just what kind of peel is best for your skin tone and skin type, rather than guessing based on the marketing language available on a skin peel manufacturer’s website.
Con: You Pay For What You Get
Chemical peels performed by physicians can cost thousands, and if your insurance doesn’t cover the procedure (most don’t), that can be cost-prohibitive.
Pro: It Can Last For Decades
Unlike at-home, light chemical peels, a deep peel can offer lasting effects - up to 20 years’ worth.
Con: It Is A Serious Procedure With Risks
While you’re having the procedure done - which typically involves leaving acid in a high concentration on the skin for up to an hour or two hours in the case of phenol peels. You have to have your heart rate monitored.
Some doctors also use anesthesia during the procedure - which carries its own set of risks. Deep chemical peels are true cosmetic procedures with risks for infection and permanent scarring if they aren’t performed properly. Another danger is not following the doctor’s discharge orders, which includes leaving a layer of petroleum jelly on the skin, covered by sterile dressings that you’ll have to return daily to have changed by your doctor.
Physicians will also typically prescribe oral antibiotics because of the high risk for infection. The deeper the peel, the longer the recovery time - and a phenol peel can take up to four months to fully heal.
Pro: Your Skin Will Look Brighter And Fresher
A single session of a deep peel, such as a phenol peel, is typically all that’s needed for “instant” (post-recovery time) results that last.
Con: You Have To Be Happy With Brighter, Lighter Skin
Do phenol peels sound vaguely familiar in a pop culture sense? For those of us over 30, they should. The Manual of Aesthetic Surgery 1 describes the collected results of these peels - “permanently lightened smooth skin with a wax-like appearance” as being called the “Michael Jackson Effect.”
These peels may provide dramatic results, but the face will become lightened and the patient loses the ability to tan. For people with darker skin tones, this dramatic change in skin pigmentation means that this type of peel is almost appropriate. Even milder peels will leave a person at a greater risk for sunburn and may require avoiding sun exposure.
So before opting for a procedure with plenty of a "peel," weigh the pros and cons to see if it's truly worth it.